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PENKILL CASTLE, AYRSHIRE
Home of Dr. Elton (AL) Eckstrand (The Lawman)
by Michael Hall
When, in 1857, the last of the Boyds of Penkill in the direct male line decided to rebuild his ancestors' castle he
re-awoke fading memories of a
famous family. Boyd had been a distinguished name in Scottish history since the 13th century; Sir Robert Boyd was a commander at Bannockburn,
and a later Robert became regent of Scotland in 1466. One of his grandsons was the ancestor of the presents baron of Kilmarnock; another, Adam,
was the first laird of Penkill.
Adam acquired the estate shortly after his marriage in about 1532. Thirty
years later the previous owner was still claiming at law that he had been
wrongfully ejected. It was an age when property rights often gave way to
force; in 1558 Adam had to endure a four-day siege when a neighbor tried
to wrest the castle from him.
Penkill was well equipped by its site to withstand attach. It is on a western ridge of the Carrick
Hills, four miles east of Girvan and the
sea. The north and west the grounds falls steeply into a narrow glen carved by Penwhapple Burn. This picturesque setting has entranced almost
every visitor. In 1888 William Morris wrote to his daughter Jenny: "the
place is lovely: it lies on the hill-side on a spit of ground with a beck
running on each side just like Naworth -----from the tower you can see the
great wide firth (of Clyde) Ailsa Craig plain to see, & the mountains of
Arran lying in the distance.
However, Morris's conservationist principles deplored the drastic rebuilding of the castle itself. Adam built----or perhaps took over----a
simple, square, four storied tower, which had bartisans at its northwest and south-east corners. The stone-vaulted ground floor was a
stable, above which were three chambers, the top one lit on the east wall
by a fine, triangular-headed dormer ornamented with a rope moulding. A wing was added on the north side of the old tower in 1628 by Thomas
Boyd, Adam's great-grandson, who also built a circular staircase tower in
the angle between the two; a date panel over the entrance bears his monogram and that of his wife, Marion Mure of Rowallen.
In 1750 Thomas's grandson, Alexander Boyd, died childless and the laird-
ship passed to a cousin, Robert Boyd of Trochrig. Robert died in 1761,
bequeathing his estates to his nephew Spencer Boyd, who lived in Virginia. Neither Spencer nor his eldest son James, ever left America,
and Penkill, uninhabited since 1750, fell into ruin.
Then, in 1792, Spencer's youngest son, also Spencer, inherited the Scottish estate from his brother and decided to live there. He moved in
an 18th century house called Piedmont (now GLENDOUNE House) in Girvan, on land owned by the Boyds since 1544. A captain in the Ayrshire
Fencible Cavalry, he had five children, and in 1807 set an unhappy precedent for the remaining Boyd generations by dying young. His only
surviving son another Spencer, was married to Margaret Losh.
Her family were industrialists with interest in both their native Cumberland and Newcastle upon Tyne. Margaret's father, William, was a partner
of George Stephenson and manager of the Walker Iron Works at Newcastle, founder by his brother John. Another brother, James, was a good friend
of Wordsworth, and the whole family had strong literary and artistic interests.
One of John's daughters was the celebrated Sarah Losh (1785-1853),
architect of the remarkable Romanesque church at Wreay, near Carlisle
It is this background that must explain the artistic bent of Margaret's children, Spencer, a talented carver, and Alice, who became an
accomplished painter. The death of their father of consumption (TB) only a year after Alice's birth in 1825 meant that the Loshes provided
the children's sole family circle until their mother remarried. It was their grandfather, William Losh, who encouraged and paid for the
rebuilding of Penkill.
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Figure 1. Penkill
Castle, Girvan, Ayrshire, from the east, showing the 16th century
tower, the circular stair added in 1857-58 and the hall of
1883-1885 |
A watercolour of the ruins (now at Penkill) and the sketch and plans
published by MacGibbon and Ross in "Castellated and Domestic Architecture
of Scotland" (1887-1892) make clear what was done by Spencer's rather obscure choice of a architect, Alexander George Thomson of Glasgow (who
had no known connection with his famous namesake, Alexander "Greek" Thomson). Although trained as a civil engineer rather than as an
architect, he confidently deployed a robust medieval idiom at Penkill, his only recorded country-house commission (Fig 1). Little more than the
west gable wall survived of the 1628 wing, which had to be completely reconstructed, but the original tower required only reroofing and the
addition of a bulky new flue for the chimneys.
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Figure 2.
The interior of the hall |
In the tower's first-floor room Thomson provided an almost grossly flamboyant
stone chimneyhood (Fig 12), designed, William Bell Scott later said, to give the room "the character of a hall in a larger edifice".
The most radical change was the replacement of the badly ruined staircase
tower with a much enlarged version. Its pepper-grinder profile lends the
castle a toy-fortress air.
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Figure 12. The
drawing room fireplace, designed by A.G. Thomson in 1857.
The brass kettle and its stand are gifts brought back from the
East by Holman Hunt. |
By 1858 Spencer was able to move in and begin to furnish the rooms in an
antiquarian manner with old oak furniture and tapestries. He was an enthusiastic collector of antique pieces of carving and soon became known
in the neighborhood for paying good money for "auld trash". His taste is most evident in the present dining room (Fig 11), a rich ensemble of
tapestry and wood carving.
| Fig 2. The dining
room with tapestries and paintings |
In March 1859, when Alice was staying in Newcastle with her grandfather to recover from the death of her mother the previous autumn, she had the
meeting which was to determine the future course of her life and the history of Penkill. In need of a new interest, she decided to devote
herself seriously to painting and so was given an introduction to the master of the Newcastle branch of the government School of Design,
William Bell Scott, who had known Sarah Losh.
Scott then aged 49 is an artist best remembered today for his paintings in the hall of the Trevelyan's home,
He was also a much-admired teacher and a prolific writer on art. Yet it was his poetry rather than his painting which attracted the
attention of the young D.G. Rossetti and led to their meeting in 1847. This was Scott's introduction to the Pre-Raphaelites. His talents and
gift for friendship meant that he rapidly became a highly valued member of Rossetti circle, a compensation for the quiet misery of his private
life since his marriage in 1839.
In July 1860 he visited Penkill for the first time, and his relationship
with the beautiful, eagerly affectionate Alice rapidly deepened into lifelong intimacy. "The `friendship at first sight' was confirmed," he
recalled. "Time could not strengthen it, but the impression or instinct of sympathy was changed by experience into satisfied conviction and
confident repose...My wife had faith in us too, and A.B.'s brother as well."
He painted a beautiful double portrait of Spencer and Alice on the roof of Penkill (Fig 3), against a backdrop of glen and sea.
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| Fig. 3. William
Bell Scott's portrait of Spencer, who rebuilt Penkill in the
1850s, and his sister Alice Boyd, on the top of the round tower.
In the distance is the firth of Clyde and (to the left) Ailsa crag.
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This unlooked-for happiness was abruptly marred by the death of Spencer
Boyd from heart failure in February 1865. Realizing that the unconventional nature of their household might now attract comment, Scott proposed
painting a mural on the staircase wall as an excuse for his long visits.
His interest in wall decoration went back to his unsuccessful entry in 1842 in the competition to provide murals for the palace at Westminster.
At Wallington, he had painted in oil on canvases which were then fixed to
the wall, but at Penkill he decided to paint directly onto the plaster.
As Scott explained in a lecture to the Institute of British Architects in 1868, the medium was wax dissolved in turpentine: "when employed on a
surface of plaster not previously touched, the turpentine is absorbed with a portion of the colour and the oil in which the colours were
originally ground, while the wax retains a great deal of luminosity." The
almost glossy brilliance of much of the colour today proves the experiment successful. However, damp seemed an unconquerable enemy and
within months the painting began to decay. The solution eventually adopted was to line the staircase with sheets of zinc at the points where
the wall backed onto the exterior.
Scott chose an appropriately Scottish subject for the murals (Figs 4-7):
The Kings Quair, a long poem written by James I of Scotland when he was imprisoned in Windsor Castle. The captive glimpses his beloved , Lady
Jane Beaufort, in the garden, and in a dream is transported to the courts
of Venus and Minerva. Portraits of friends appear throughout: Spencer Boyd, posthumously, as one of the castle guards (Fig 7); Christina
Rossetti as Lady Jane; Swinburne and W.M. Rossetti as courtiers of Venus,
together with Scott himself (Fig 4), accompanied by Alice's pet duck, Quasi.
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| Fig 4. A self
portrait of William Bell Scott (with Alice's pet Duck) in the
staircase mural |
Once the mural was finished, in August 1868, Scott turned his attentions
to decorative painting elsewhere----dragons on the stairs (Fig 6); sunflowers and apple blossoms in window reveals; birds and beasts on
his bedroom cornice (Fig 8). He also painted furniture, as gradually the castle filled with pictures by himself, Alice and their friends.
The rich results are seen at their most delightful in the laird's bedroom
(figs 9 and 10). Sleepers in the bed decorated with a thickly embroidered
valance and carved posts and headboard awake to a ceiling painted with a
vine trailing over trellis, above which dragonflies and swallows swoop in
summer clouds.
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Fig. 5. Details
of the staircase and its painted decoration. |
Friends also provided furnishings. D.G. Rossetti, who spent two long holidays
there in 1868 and 1869, at a time when Scott was one of his
closet confidants, sent crates of old carvings, pieces of tapestry and blue-and-white china, which
became part of what he called "those
ingenious Chinese puzzles of arrangement which share with the reproving eyebrow the softer palpitations of W.B.s soul". Several of Rossetti's
letters of 1868-1869 capture the castles relaxed atmosphere of art and animal, whisky, friends and endless talk.
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| Fig 6 Part of the
mural is painted on zinc panels, to avoid the persistent damp |
| Fig 7. The
opening scene of the mural, which illustrates The Kings
Quair, the poem written by James I of Scotland in the 1420s
while he was a prisoner at Windsor Castle. The soldier at
the top is Spencer Boyd; the figure in front of him is said to be
Holman Hunt |
In the winters Alice stayed with the Scotts at their London home and in
summer the household moved to Penkill. There Scott, helped by Spencer's
former factor, laid out an "old-fashioned" garden , with almost Art Nouveau ironwork in gates
and fences designed by Scott and
still-surviving bowers of honeysuckle and clematis. The last major project was
the erection of a new hall between 1883 and 1885, entirely to Scott's plans, but on a site proposed for "future extension" in 1857. A simple
oblong, with crow-stepped gables (and a stone owl on the parapet), it sits comfortably with the old buildings. The barn-like interior (Fig 2),
which provided a ground-floor dining room for the now elderly couple and
a large, well-lit space for displaying their paintings, is paneled with narrow pine planks above a frieze of gold and brown striped wall paper
against which the small pictures were hung. In the passage linking the
hall with the castle are four large, embroidered panels designed by Morris in the 1960s.
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| Fig 8. The three
shrews; a detail of Scott's decoration of the cornice in his own
bedroom. |
The unvaried pattern of life at Penkill was eventually broken in 1885 by
Scott's recurrent attacks of angina, which confined him to the castle until his death in 1890. The grieving Alice helped to edit his
Auto-biographical Notes, published in 1892. Unfortunately, Scott's frankness
about elements in Rossetti's personality brought down a storm of abuse from which Scott's reputation never fully recovered. Alice died in 1897,
and followed her grandfather's wishes by bequeathing Penkill to the descendants of her half-brother Henry Courtney, the child of her mother's
second marriage.
| Fig 9. A
carved endpost on the laird's bed |
For the next 75 years, the castle was the home of his spinster daughters.
In the last decades of the youngest's life, Penkill came close to total disaster, as unscrupulous scholars, dealers and neighbors persuaded her
to sell or give away her treasures. The scandal became public in a bizarre fashion: the local milkman was attempting to wrench from the wall
the portrait of Spencer and Alice, above which Scott had written "Move not this picture, let it be for love of those in effigy", when he
suddenly fell dead.
Penkill's eventual sale, in 1978, might have been the sorry end to this grim fairy tale had not Dr. Elton August (Al) Eckstrand, an American lawyer
and passionate admirer of Pre-Raphaelite art and philosophy, decided to buy the castle complete with contents. He has devoted his life to
Penkill's preservation, replacing the lead stolen from the roof, replanting the garden and starting the repair of the murals, as well as
buying back items such as Christina Rossetti's bed.
Scott rightly compared Penkill with "the palace of Sleeping Beauty, in its enchanted and limitless repose". Twice it has faced abandonment;
twice, in the late 18th century and today, American-born lairds have come
to its rescue. The castle's long-term preservation, with its contents and decoration intact, is a matter of national importance.
COUNTRY LIFE
March 21, 1991 Photographs by Tim Imrie. Used with permission.
The Lawman - Al Eckstrand
Return of the Lawman - Al Eckstrand
Dear Richard Boyd While researching lot 97 in our Modern First Editions auction to be held on Thursday 16th December I came across your website and thought I'd drop you a line in case you or any other Boyd clan member might be interested in this. There are images of three of the photos linked to the description online. | 97 * | Pre-Raphaelites. An album containing twenty-four cartes-de-visite photographs, c. 1860s/70s, all window-mounted and many identified in pencil or ball-point pen, mounted circular vign. photo frontis. of Alice Boyd, identified and dated 1860, a.e.g., orig. calf, stamped with repeating vertical rules, two rivetted brass straps and shield, clasps in working order, rubbed on joints, approx. 15 x 12 cm The Boyds and Courtney-Boyds were lairds of Penkill and Trochrig, Ayrshire. Alice Boyd, whose portrait appears as the 'frontispiece' of the album, had a long affair with the Pre-Raphaelite artist and critic William Bell Scott. He spent much of his time at Penkill with Alice Boyd and both of them knew the Rossetti family well. List of portraits in the album: mounted circular vignette of a woman painting, identified on mount as Alice Boyd, 1860; Dante Gabriel Rossetti; unidentified woman by John Edwards, London; William Rossetti, signed on lower mount; unidentified man, by Ross & Thomson, Edinburgh; Dante Gabriel Rossetti, by W. & D. Downey, Newcastle & London; werhestCoGrrs Garomnetlmow) eyoyC.otliD; errick, Brighton; Mrs Emma Fauna(?) - (eldest sister of H.C. Courtney), by H.P. Robinson; unidentified man, by David Campbell, Ayr; unidentified older woman [as last], by David Campbell, Ayr; Mrs Mayhew & Eleanor Margaret (eldest daughter), first wife of Rev. Courtney (half-brother to Spencer & Alice Boyd); Christina Rossetti, by W. Jeffrey, London; Mrs Lowell - grandmother and mother of present owner's mother, Evelyn May Courtney-Boyd, by George Bell, Carlisle; Eleanor Margaret Courtney (Mayhew when born), later Courtney-Boyd (half-sister to Evelyn May), by F. Moor, Ventnor; [Lawrence] Alma-Tadema?; Miss [Laura] Epps, wife of Alma-Tadema, by John Watkins, London; unidentified couple, by Lacombe & Lacroix, Geneva; John Campbell Kennedy (four years old, 14th November 1877), by P. Devine, Edinburgh. | | (1) | Illustrations Available | £300-500 | Best wishes Chris Albury Cataloguer and Valuer (Historical Documents, Ephemera, Autographs & Photographs) Dominic Winter Book Auctions The Old School, Maxwell Street, Swindon, Wiltshire, SN1 5DR, UK Tel +44 (0)1793 611340 Fax +44 (0)1793 491727
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